The cat enjoyed the wildlife and the ducks came right up to our site each night. Luckily it wasn't too warm and we able to leave the door open for her to fantasize about stalking one. The owner of the campground was a cordial host. I informed him we were going to the park and let us use his audio tour CD for the day. That saved us $11.
We arrived at the park around noon and took a quick tour of the visitors center where we just in time for a showing of a short film depicting the battle of Vicksburg.
For those unfamiliar with it Vicksburg, situated on high bluff overlooking a hairpin bend in the Mississippi River, was a pivotal Civil War battle fought from the end of May 1863 to July 4, 1863 when Confederate forces under Lt. General John Pemberton surrendered to Union general Ulysses S. Grant. The Battle of Gettysburg was also coming to end at the same time so Vicksburg doesn't always get the recognition that Gettysburg does but nonetheless it was just as critical. Just as Gettysburg turned back Confederate gains in the north, Union victory at Vicksburg ensured the North's control of the Mississippi river thus cutting off the South's only line of supply to the outside world since the North had successfully blockaded most Confederate ports along the east coast.
The battle lines were drawn on May 18, 1863 as Confederate forces took up defenses along the high ground east of the city, while the west flank of the town was protected by the Mississippi and artillery batteries mounted high up on the bluffs of the town. Grants land attacks were repulsed time after time and he soon realized the key to victory was laying siege to the city even though Pemberton held a 2:1 manpower advantage. Grant's troops dug trenches and pounded the city with artillery. With the city effectively cut off from supplies from the rail heads and constant bombardment by the Union the Confederates soon ran out of ammunition, food, and supplies.
Okay, enough of the history lesson; I am a real nerd when it comes to this stuff. The park is large. The road winds through the park for 16 miles and there are over 1300 monuments, a cemetery, the USS Cairo Museum, and 16 total stops along the audio tour. The tour starts at the victory arch:
The road follows the actual lines and trenches of both sides. Blue plaques indicate Union positions and actions and red indicate Confederate positions and actions:
The road takes you up Union avenue on the east side of the park and down Confederate avenue on the west side of the park. The Union monuments are numerous. Each state had the autonomy to erect their own monument once the park was established in 1899. Northern states were quick to erect theirs while southern states were not as prosperous and could not do so. Texas did not erect a monument until 1961.
The most elaborate of the memorials was built by Illinois.
Modeled after the Parthenon in Rome it is impressive in its size and detail. Every soldier from the state of Illinois that fought in Vicksburg has his name inscribed on a plaque inside. Illinois had the most troops of any any state at Vicksburg: over 37,000.
Along the road also are individual markers for every state's unit in places where that unit fought or was positioned:
We happened upon Pennsylvania's monument eventually:
Here is an interesting factoid: The states of Kentucky and Missouri have monuments on both sides. Each had units fight for the North and South. Maryland and Kansas also had units fight on both sides but not in this particular battle.
In the park is also the USS Cairo Museum. The Cairo was a Union ironclad that sank mysteriously on December 12, 1862 in the Yazoo River and was discovered in 1956. The ship was eventually recovered and put on display in Vicksburg.
After the Cairo Museum the tour goes through Vicksburg National Cemetery:
The cemetery is the final resting place for nearly 17,000 Union troops, about 13,000 who are unknown but unto God. Their graves are marked only by a small square marker with a number engraved on it. The taller ones are known.
Now there were not 17,000 killed in action at Vicksburg. When the cemetery was dedicated in 1866 Union Troops interred in other southern graves were exhumed and interred here.
Many more monuments line the Confederate side but not nearly as many as the Union side.
Another amazing factoid about Vicksburg: here is the view from Fort Hill which overlooked the Mississippi back in 1863 but this is not the Mississippi now. This is a diversion canal. Over the years the Mississippi changed its course to a few miles down river.
Alright, I have rambled on enough about Vicksburg. It was well worth the side trip from New Orleans and I am all caught up. We are now settled in at Graceland RV Park in Memphis.
Miles this leg: 219.7
Total miles: 2644.6
Next post from Memphis, TN and Graceland
Thank you; thank you very much.
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