A Few Nights in Mississippi

 After leaving New Orleans we wanted to come to Memphis but I realized Vicksburg National Military Park was along the way so we stopped for a few nights in Mississippi. We stayed at Askew's Landing Campground just west of I-55 about halfway between Jackson and Vicksburg.

The cat enjoyed the wildlife and the ducks came right up to our site each night. Luckily it wasn't too warm and we able to leave the door open for her to fantasize about stalking one. The owner of the campground was a cordial host. I informed him we were going to the park and let us use his audio tour CD for the day. That saved us $11. 

We arrived at the park around noon and took a quick tour of the visitors center where we just in time for a showing of a short film depicting the battle of Vicksburg. 

For those unfamiliar with it Vicksburg, situated on high bluff overlooking a hairpin bend in the Mississippi River, was a pivotal Civil War battle fought from the end of May 1863 to July 4, 1863 when Confederate forces under Lt. General John Pemberton surrendered to Union general Ulysses S. Grant. The Battle of Gettysburg was also coming to end at the same time so Vicksburg doesn't always get the recognition that Gettysburg does but nonetheless it was just as critical. Just as Gettysburg turned back Confederate gains in the north,  Union victory at Vicksburg ensured the North's control of the Mississippi river thus cutting off the South's only line of supply to the outside world since the North had successfully blockaded most Confederate ports along the east coast. 

The battle lines were drawn on May 18, 1863 as Confederate forces took up defenses along the high ground east of the city, while the west flank of the town was protected by the Mississippi and artillery batteries mounted high up on the bluffs of the town. Grants land  attacks were repulsed time after time and he soon realized the key to victory was laying siege to the city even though Pemberton held a 2:1 manpower advantage. Grant's troops dug trenches and pounded the city with artillery.  With the city effectively cut off from supplies from the rail heads and constant bombardment by the Union the Confederates soon ran out of ammunition, food, and supplies.

Okay, enough of the history lesson; I am a real nerd when it comes to this stuff. The park is large. The road winds through the park for 16 miles and there are over 1300 monuments, a cemetery, the USS Cairo Museum, and 16 total stops along the audio tour. The tour starts at the victory arch:

The road follows the actual lines and trenches of both sides. Blue plaques indicate Union positions and actions and red indicate Confederate positions and actions:

The road takes you up Union avenue on the east side of the park and down Confederate avenue on the west side of the park. The Union monuments are numerous. Each state had the autonomy to erect their own monument once the park was established in 1899. Northern states were quick to erect theirs while southern states were not as prosperous and could not do so. Texas did not erect a monument until 1961. 

The most elaborate of the memorials was built by Illinois. 

Modeled after the Parthenon in Rome it is impressive in its size and detail. Every soldier from the state of Illinois that fought in Vicksburg has his name inscribed on a plaque inside. Illinois had the most troops of any any state at Vicksburg: over 37,000.

Along the road also are individual markers for every state's unit in places where that unit fought or was positioned:

We happened upon Pennsylvania's monument eventually:

Here is an interesting factoid: The states of Kentucky and  Missouri have monuments on both sides. Each had units fight for the North and South. Maryland and Kansas also had units fight on both sides but not in this particular battle.

In the park is also the USS Cairo Museum. The Cairo was a Union ironclad that sank mysteriously on December 12, 1862 in the Yazoo River and was discovered in 1956. The ship was eventually recovered and put on display in Vicksburg.

After the Cairo Museum the tour goes through Vicksburg National Cemetery:

The cemetery is the final resting place for nearly 17,000 Union troops, about 13,000 who are unknown but unto God. Their graves are marked only by a small square marker with a number engraved on it. The taller ones are known.

Now there were not 17,000 killed in action at Vicksburg. When the cemetery was dedicated in 1866  Union Troops interred in other southern graves were exhumed and interred here. 

Many more monuments line the Confederate side but not nearly as many as the Union side.

Another amazing factoid about Vicksburg: here is the view from Fort Hill which overlooked the Mississippi back in 1863 but this is not the Mississippi now. This is a diversion canal. Over the years the Mississippi changed its course to a few miles down river.

Alright, I have rambled on enough about Vicksburg. It was well worth the side trip from New Orleans and I am all caught up. We are now settled in at Graceland RV Park in Memphis. 

Miles this leg: 219.7

Total miles: 2644.6

Next post from Memphis, TN and Graceland

Thank you; thank you very much.

New Orleans Pt.3

  Our visit to New Orleans has come to an end and we are now in Memphis, TN after stopping somewhere in Mississippi for two nights:

We visited Vicksburg National Battlefield Park while in Mississippi and that will be the subject of my next post. 

We finished the week by going to the National WWII Museum, The Garden District a couple of times, and one last stroll down Bourbon St. Let me begin by saying I have enjoyed our stay here in the Big Easy but I will be glad to be on our way. We saw a lot and I am way behind. Today is Friday May 23 and we left New Orleans on Monday so this might be a lengthy post.
 Back to New Orleans: Last Thursday we hopped on the street car and got off at Royal St. and went to the Pharmacy Museum, the Presbyter, and the Hotel Monteleone Carousel Bar.
 The Pharmacy Museum was OK, it is set up like a turn of the 20'th century pharmacy. The many exhibits include this soda fountain:

A collection of archaic medical practices and devices for blood letting including leeches. Blood letting was a common cure for many 19'th century maladies with a whole array of instruments to accomplish this.

Optometry was more advanced although there was a display of optical surgical instruments. Wouldn't want to have cataracts back then!

All of the common herbs, minerals, and compounds on hand:

After the Pharmacy Museum was the Presbyter which is an old building to the right of St. Louis Cathedral housing the Hurricane Katrina and Mardi Gras Museums. I thought that to be an odd pairing. I didn't take any photos in the Katrina portion because it was more of an audio/ visual display with video monitors and interactive displays describing the conditions in the city after the storm, the events leading to its recovery and the levee system and causes for its failure in New Orleans.

The second floor is more upbeat with the Mardi Gras Museum. It displays costumes, paraphernalia, and memorabilia of Mardi Gras throughout the last three- hundred years. 

What I found interesting is there are several groups or clubs that put on elaborate balls and they elect a king and queen who are costumed in garb that would have made Liberace jealous.

After the museum it was off to the Hotel Monteleone for a drink at their famous carousel bar. The hotel is a New Orleans landmark and many famous personalities have stayed here including Tennessee Williams, Ann Rice, William Faulkner, and John Grisham.

The top looks just like an old carousel and the stools are carved and painted. The  bar is circular and the stools are attached to the floor. The entire edifice rotates slowly.

We had a Sazerac cocktail which was created in New Orleans in the early 1800's and is considered the oldest known cocktail mixed in America. We finished off the day with a walk down to the French Market area but it was late and the market was closed. We heard some jazz emanating from a nearby restaurant so we sat down and ordered drinks and something to eat. The quartet was amazing and when they passes the jug for tips a the end of the set I dropped $25 in. I got their CD and they all autographed it for me.

Who doesn't enjoy a great saxophone solo?

  The following day we went to the National WWII Museum. I regret we didn't have more time to spend there. I could have spent an entire day in there. We didn't get there until after 12 and it closed at 5. If you are into WWII history like me that is not enough time. There are displays dedicated to D-Day and the victory in Europe, the war in the Pacific, the home front, and an entire building of aircraft sponsored by Boeing. You can also view three different movies as an add-on to your admission. We chose the 4-D movie, Beyond All Boundaries. It is an amazing 45 minute presentation with rumbling seats, smoke, snow flakes, and props. It is worth the extra $5. 

We started in the Boeing display where four levels take you up to see numerous aircraft including a B-17:

A B-25 like the ones used in the Doolittle raid on Tokyo;

A P-51 Mustang fighter:

A SBD Dauntless dive bomber. George W. flew one of these:

And my favorite plane of WWII, an F4U Corsair fighter:

The Corsair is recognizable due to its gull wings. It was one of the fastest fighters of the war and perhaps turned the tide against the Japanese fighter known as the "Zero". Prior to the Corsair nothing in the U.S. inventory could compete against the Zero and its speed and lethality.

Who over the age of 45 doesn't remember Pappy Boyington and the TV show, Ba Ba Black Sheep? Pappy flew the Corsair in the Pacific and was a top ace. 

Back to the museum: if you are a freedom loving American you must come here if you are ever in the area. There is much to see but unfortunately flash photography is forbidden and most of the displays are purposely kept dimly lit. There are many artifacts from all theaters of the war so give yourself plenty of time beyond the recommended three hours.

Our last day in New Orleans was Sunday. We took a ride to the Garden District. We had attempted this a few days before but it was so crowded and parking is at a real premium. There aren't any lots so if you can't find a spot on Magazine St. you have to scour the residential streets. Let me tell you about that: they have the worst kept road surfaces i have ever seen. The roads are literally crumbling. In some spots there is a five foot wide ditch between the curb and asphalt due to rain run off. Cars park anywhere and it can get really narrow. Add to that it is like driving over railroad ties and it can get very annoying. Sunday was a better bet because all the partiers are home. We found a spot on Magazine St. which is the main attraction. There are shops and restaurants lining the street. After parking we walked to Lafayette Cemetery. Now just because we found a place top park didn't mean the challenge was over. Doreen now had to navigate the deteriorating city streets and sidewalks:

I found the place fascinating. The crypts are above ground and numerous family members can be interred in one crypt. Once the main tablet is full they just add additional tablets to the sides:

Many of the crypts are in a sad state of disrepair while others look fairly well maintained:

Some are so old I imagine the family died off decades ago without any ancestors to take care of it:

Another thing to consider: longevity was short. Many did not make it to their fifties as evidenced by this marker:

Of the eight names engraved on the stone only one was over the age of 50 when they died.

After the cemetery we grabbed a bight to eat then it was off to Bourbon St. for a final taste of New Orleans.

Bourbon St. is definitely not for the prudish but if you want something a little tamer try Royal St. There you can check out art galleries and antiques or dine on a balcony: 

That ends our trip to New Orleans. We had a great time but it can be expensive. Some suggestions: try not to use the ATM's because they can range up to $6 per transaction. If driving into the city, street parking is more available on the outskirts of the French Quarter on Rampart, Basin, or Esplanade but meters are two hours only. Better yet, use the buses or street cars if parking for free at the Art Museum in City Park. Do not engage anyone telling you, "I can tell you where you got your shoes". Get one of the tourist maps and use the coupons. Make sure you have some cash because some places do not take plastic. Most of all: have fun!